I know, i know. It's been a while. I left London December 1 after a truly lovely and memorable thanksgiving amongst Americans, Swedes, Germans, Brits, Austrians, Danes and a Nigerian. I'm so glad i decided to make the trip back.
I'm also glad i came bak to Tel Aviv, well Jaffa to be specific. The last time I was in town, I fell in love with Jaffa. There was something so magical about being in a part of Tel Aviv that felt seemingly untouched by time...probably because every building there is at least 200 years old and nothing is allowed to be destroyed only renovated. it's like Jerusalem, without all the religious fervor...and also chucks of the old part of town is owned by the Greek Orthodox Church...which is crazy...anyway.
A talked to a friend, and he managed to find me an apartment in Jaffa. So after landing, I took the train into central Tel Aviv, with the intention of simply taking a taxi to my new apartment- a feat that proved itself to be less than simple. So there I was suitcase in hand, asking a cab diver to take me to where I needed to go. He told me to wait a minute while he grabbed more passengers and he would "negotiate a good price for me." All this was said in Hebrew, and the driver walked away as another driver asked me where i wanted to go. The suddenly the first driver asked the second why he was talking to me. and an all out brawl ensued. Two grown men were literally fighting over who would take me. I quickly jumped into another taxi, told him where i wanted to go, and i demanded that he run the meter. In a heavy American accent he told me "ein beiaya" (no problem).
So off we went to my new home for the month. My new roommate greeted me and immediately asked if i wanted to go out as her friend was throwing a party. I instantly new we'd get along. I told her I did, but sadly I couldn't since a friend of mine was waiting for me a bar. So i dropped off my bags, took a shower and headed out. Did I mention I love this city?
My friend greeted me with wine and an invitation to go on an adventure with him and some friends the following day. And really this is why I haven't written. My adventures here have been so ridiculous I haven't had the time or perspective to write about them. Our adventure on the subsequent day- a helicopter ride to Chateau Golan, a vineyard in the Golan Heights, was nothing short of spectacular. and i have the pictures to prove it.
Proof:
Yeah you read that right, I took a helicopter over half of the country to sip on some wine while being given a private tour of what many consider to be the best vineyard in the region.
Whaaaaaat!?!? how the hell do you top that? It was nothing short of epic. Really, I've had had so much fun here. I've met new people, enjoyed the company of old friends and family. And isn't that what it's all about?
What I've loved about Jaffa are the little things- the local cafes where all the dogs know all the waiters. How the architecture hasn't changed in hundreds of years, so every building must constantly maintain an old world that fights the glass boxes of nearby Tel Aviv. There's an actual feeling of community: One where restaurant owners sit with their customers, and everyone knows everyone. Within a few weeks, I was even part of the club, meeting and chatting with locals over americanos in beautiful outdoor cafes. I love the fish shops where gruff old men scale fish next to their sons and grandsons. Where people argue passionately over who makes the best hummus. i love how the evening Muslim call to prayer echoes like dueling playlists from minaret to minaret.
I bike by the beach as often as I can, and i still cannot get over the sunsets over the Mediterranean.
My mom said I sound like a fancy lady on a pension. Coffee shops in the morning. Lunching with friends during the day, and parties at night.
But how long can that last?
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